This video is from the PTC Live demonstration stage at the 2024 International Builders' Show, where we demonstrated how to install a four-piece shower unit from Sterling. It installs with screws and requires no sealants.
VIDEO TRANSCRIPT:
Install the shower base
There's a lot of bases out there, and one of the things that people sometimes say, that I have sometimes heard, is, "I'm worried that it's going to be too wobbly," or, "There's going to be deflection in the base." With these bases, there's really no deflection once that's installed. Whether it's mortar set or set on the pads, there's really no deflection on that pan itself.
Correct, we go through stringent testing, and there's no flexure. I'd say the key here is that when they place the receptor into the stud pocket, they need to ensure that the pan is completely level before proceeding. If it's not level, you can either use that thin-set mortar to level it, or we recommend placing a shim underneath the support foot where the subfloor is not flat. These types of wood shims are usually available on the job site, and your crew should have them. If you need to put a shim under a foot just to make it level, that'll prevent any kind of wobbling.
The next step is to secure it to the stud pocket, which will ensure it's not going anywhere. So, what are they doing? I see that they've just pulled out some clips. What are these?
These clips are provided—there are 12 in each shower pan. These are plastic attachment clips, which will secure the shower pan to the stud pocket. Next, we're going to place isolation clips along each stud. He's sliding it in between the tile flange of the receptor and the stud itself. Please note, on the receptors, these are tile flanges. Do not drill holes through these tile flanges; that's why we provide the clips, to offer best-in-class, superior water containment. In each one of the studs, they're going to drill with a galvanized, let's say, one-and-a-half-inch screw. A truss head screw will work perfectly here.
Install the back shower wall section
Now, you can install our walls onto these shower bases. This is called the Medley line. It's a smooth wall set with ample storage. It actually has six shelves, or if you prefer, four shelves with two shaving ledges.
The team is now first installing the one-piece back wall. The walls themselves actually have a tab-and-slot design, so they will sit the same way on that receptor each time. You don't have to guess. Think of it like Legos; it actually has a positive molded tab on the bottom of the wall. The receptors have a slot, so it fits one way, the same way every time. You'll know that the wall is properly installed because the gap between the wall and the receptor should not be more than three-quarters of an inch or the width of a credit card. Your team can actually put a credit card in there—if it only accepts one credit card, it's seated properly on the bases. That's all we need to do there; the wall will actually stand by itself.
Install the shower end walls
Next, we're going to connect and install the end walls. Our end walls, if we can just show everybody, are extremely lightweight. The benefit of this design is that your team can actually unpack it in the garage, walk it through existing doorways and hallways, walk it up to that second-story install point, snap it in, and go. It's extremely lightweight and easy. This approach is particularly useful for remodels where there are already walls and studs.
It also goes direct to stud, so in this application, there is no adhesive and no glue of any kind. It truly is a bath-to-shower conversion in a day. Since there's no caulk in the seams and no adhesive of any kind, the homeowner can actually use that shower or bath-shower that same night.
As you can also see, we have tabs and slots that connect the bases, and we've designed a very robust wall mechanism with interlocking joints between the back wall and the end walls. This ensures a very tight seam, making it simple and easy to install. Lastly, I just want to point out that these seams feature a water channel management system. Any water that sprays up there will be captured in a watertight seam, without requiring caulk, and redirected back into the basin.
Now, we've got the back wall in place. You simply bring it up about 4 to 6 inches above and connect it with that slot in the back wall. That was quick, wasn't it? That's insanely fast. I love how you talked about everything being designed to redirect water back down to the base, and the absence of caulk and sealant means you’re not relying on those elements that might wear out over time. If water gets anywhere in that system, it all ends up back down at the pan, where it's going to drain out. That's pretty slick, and that's super fast. I mean, we just put together a shower in under 15 minutes.
Now, we're going to secure the walls to the studs themselves. We always recommend going from the front to the back. The nice thing about this design is that there's no pre-drilling required. We actually mold in pre-drill divots along the nail flanges themselves. So, you guys are going to install along the vertical, filling each one of the pre-drilled divots. Then, as we go to the top, we're going to work from the front to the back. You only need to install a galvanized truss head screw along each of the studs horizontally.
This shower now has a 10-year residential guarantee and a 3-year commercial guarantee.
